THE INGREDIENT SHELF

Peptides and boosters in skincare: what the evidence says

A crowded corner of the shelf with big claims. Each page says what the trials measured and how large the effect was.

7 ingredients

Peptides and proteins

Hydrolyzed collagen

Collagen broken into small pieces. Used in creams and hair products, and also sold as a supplement.

Moisturising

Peptides

Short chains of amino acids. Added to creams and serums aimed at firmer-looking skin, and listed under many different names.

Anti-Ageing
Moisturising

Snail mucin

The fluid secreted by snails, a popular ingredient in Korean-style essences and creams. Listed as snail secretion filtrate.

Anti-Ageing
Moisturising

Plant compounds

Bakuchiol

A plant-derived ingredient from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant. Often marketed as a plant-based alternative to retinol in serums and creams.

Anti-Ageing
Antioxidant

Small-molecule actives

Allantoin

A gentle, widely used ingredient that is also found in some plants. Added to creams, lotions, balms and baby products.

Soothing

Caffeine

The familiar stimulant found in coffee and tea. Used in eye creams, serums and body products aimed at puffiness.

Antioxidant

Panthenol

Also called provitamin B5. Used in balms, hair products and creams for dry or irritated skin.

Soothing
Moisturising

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