Green tea extract in skincare: acne, ageing and trials

The lab case for green tea

Green tea contains polyphenolic compounds called epicatechins, which are antioxidant. The most active of them is EGCG, short for epigallocatechin-3-gallate. A 2001 review reports that in different animal models, applying or drinking green tea polyphenols inhibits tumours caused by chemicals or ultraviolet light, and that green tea extract has anti-inflammatory activity too.¹

The same review is careful about the next step. It says the protective effects of green tea against UV-induced inflammation or cancer in human skin, whether applied or consumed, are not well understood.¹ That is the gap the trials below try to fill.

What a trial on photoageing found

Forty women with moderate photoageing were randomised to a 10% green tea cream plus a 300 mg green tea supplement twice a day, or to placebo, for 8 weeks. There were no significant clinical differences between the groups, other than higher subjective scores of irritation in the green tea group. Skin biopsies did show a significant improvement in the elastic tissue content of the treated skin. The authors concluded that clinically significant changes could not be detected, and that longer supplementation may be needed.²

Note the design: a cream plus a pill, so the cream's own contribution cannot be separated, and 8 weeks is short.²

What a small acne trial found

In a study of 20 patients with mild to moderate acne, a 2% green tea lotion was applied twice daily for six weeks. The mean count of papules and pustules fell from 24 to 10, a reduction of 58%, and the authors called it an effective, cost-effective treatment.³

This was a single-group study with no placebo or comparison group, so it cannot say how much of the improvement was the lotion. It is a signal worth testing properly, not a result to rely on.

Using green tea extract with other products

We did not find a source saying green tea extract has to be kept apart from another ingredient, and no studies of it layered with actives. The photoageing trial above recorded higher irritation scores in the green tea group,² so it is worth adding it on its own first.

Green tea extract in pregnancy and breastfeeding

Evidence on cosmetic products in pregnancy is limited overall, so ask your doctor or midwife about the specific product you use.⁴

What you will see on the label

On a label, look for Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract. Snifff shows it as Low risk. For the rest of the formula, see what the score means and how to read the list.

As Snifff shows it

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Low risk

Pregnancy and nursing

We found no pregnancy- or lactation-specific evidence for this ingredient.

Wording as it appears in the extension, which can change between releases.